Saturday 25th May 2024
Time again for a big walk. The Kumano Kodo, we will take on part of it today in the Hongu area.

Unfortunately our late arrival yesterday foiled David’s plans as we were unable to buy any food. We had no milk for breakfast and only some green tea and nuts. The supermarket didn’t open until 8am and the bus to the end of the trail we were hoping to do left east 8.05am about a 5 min drive from the shop and we weren’t sure how to go about parking. So decided to change plans.

We will start the walk at Hongu Taisha Information Centre and do the loop trail clockwise via the Yunomine One, Kakihara-jaya Teahouse remains, Nabewari Jizu, Inohana0oji, Hosshinmon-oji, Mizunomi-oji, Fushiogami-oji and the Kumano Hongu Taisha-oji. We walked through forests of pine trees, ferns, over tree roots, cobblestones, bush trails, some roads, up and down many, many hills and saw some lovely views of the mountains from a few lookouts. We walked about 20km, up and down 900m elevation over 7 hours. It was a very pleasant walk. We start along the river and went through Japan’s largest torii gate standing 34 metres tall and 42 metres wide towers over the thick forests of Oyunohara, a magnificent sight which can be seen from a great distance away. We visited the shrine there and then headed out through the small town to the start of the trail. They had a work party ungrading the start of the trail, so fortunately that meant we got the opportunity to head up the first lot of stairs a bit slower. WE have been doing lots of walking in the cities but nothing keeps you hike fit except hiking. Anyway, we went okay.

The day passed by peacefully in the bush, we spoke to many Aussies today, as well as Taiwanese, Japanese and a couple of Americans. It was a lovely day. David even saw a raccoon  of sorts, name to follow when he works it out. It was too quick for him to get a photo.

We came home at about 4pm and enjoyed a rest, then our first visit to an Onsen which is a public bath. Designated rooms for individual genders and no swimmers. I did a little research about Onsen etiquette last night, so was a little prepared for the process. I had no-ne in the ladies when I went there and David had one man, so he was able to copy what he was doing a little. The bath was beautiful and relaxing. The water was so hot but perfect for my aching body.

Next stop was a new adventure, dinner in a non-English speaking restaurant with different food than what we have been having., We weren’t even sure what to order. We managed to order chicken skewers for an appetiser and then I ordered the nicest tofu, a boiled egg, some glass noodles and hot soup. David managed to get a bowl of rice, chicken and a raw egg thanks to his neighbouring patron. She helped him understand the menu. I also order a small bowl of rice and some more skewers. We entertained the chef and waitress with our imperfect, minimal Japanese and we gave them a bit of a giggle. All in all, the meal was very good and a funny end to a long lovely day.

We will move on to somewhere else n the morning.

“The Kumano Kodo is the birthplace of the country’s spirituality.
The Kumano faith is rooted in the worship of the natural environment, in Shinto deities like ancient trees, and in waterfalls believed to be manifestations of Buddhist entities, making the Kumano Kodo a place that brings salvation to the pilgrims.”

“The history of the Kumano Kodo Trail
Our Kumano Kodo Trail walking holidays follow in the footsteps of pilgrims going back thousands of years. Pilgrims who have sought out not only the three magnificent Kumano shrines, Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Hayatama Taisha, but also the spiritual influences of the mountains en route. Because these peaks and valleys of the Kii Mountains, straddling the Kii Peninsula south of Kyoto, have long been a focus of worship in themselves, as they are considered to have a sacred power, according to the doctrine known as sangaku shinko. This 258km walking route and the shrines that line it evolved during Japan’s Heian period (794-1185) when emperors and their entourage emanating from the ancient capital city of Kyoto sought spiritual solace in nature and mountains.

Pilgrims still follow this route to visit the main holy shrines but also many other temples and small Oji shrines that are perfectly poised among bamboo forests, with views overlooking the Pacific or mountain valleys. There are also small, traditional villages to visit en route and ethereal landscapes all around, whether you worship a deity or not.”

“Yatagarasu crow, the messenger of the gods
Yatagarasu is the mythical three-legged crow known as the messenger of the gods, and its symbol can be found in various places around Kumano Hongu Taisha. In Japanese mythology, the crow is said to have guided Emperor Jimmu from Kumano to Nara, and has been regarded as the common guiding god for the Kumano Sanzan shrines. On the Kumano-go’o-shinpu, a unique amulet offered at the Kumano Sanzan shrines, letters are designed using 88 crows. Yatagarasu is also famous as the symbol of the Japan Football Association.”