Larapinta Trail – Tjoritja Ranges NT – Day 11

Sunday 12 June 2022
Hugh Gorge to Fringe Lily Creek – Section 5 Part 1
Distance 9.3km
Moving time 3:03
Track time 4:42
Temp 2′- maybe 19
Up 236m Down 166m

“Section 5 is definitely one of the most visually spectacular and best sections of the entire Larapinta Trail. The entire section offers great views, particularly between Linear Valley and Hugh Gorge. It is also one of the most difficult sections involving ridgetop walking, steep climbs, clambering over dry river beds and boulders, negotiating waterholes and snaking through thick vegetation and thick river debris in narrow gorge areas.

Walkers should allow sufficient time to enjoy this rugged and spectacular section. The trail follows natural watercourses and it may be necessary to negotiate pools of water within Hugh Gorge. Allow two days to comfortably complete this section.

The reddish-orange walls of High Gorge contrast sharply with the bleached and water-0worn boulders of the watercourse. Ant surface oxides which form on the rocks are quickly dissolved and washed away each time the river flows.”

Today is going to be a fun day albeit harder because we have to carry 2 days water. I have 3 litres and David’s has 5 litres (Thanks DB). David has been waiting for the next 4 or 5 days from the start. Thankfully it is a beautiful sunny day as we have to go swimming today and we had a few spots of rain for about an hour last night. After a very social morning with our camp friends. The 2 young girls are on their way from Melbourne to Darwin for work, one is a nurse and the other will be working as an OT with special needs children in a school environment. Life is a great adventure. We had a chat with the Terrigal couple (Troy and Amanda – parents to young children 8 and 10) who feel privileged to get this opportunity. The husband said they have spoken to each other more in the last 5 days than they have for the last year. He is really happy to be doing this.
We hit the trail at 10am. It is a short distance today. Only 7.3km with a trail time of 4.5 hours. It is our type of hiking today. Creek beds of rocks big and small, boulder hopping, navigating up and down rocks, then a swim in freezing water, passing packs up an enormous boulder. The views of the escarpment in the Gorge were spectacular. David managed to only get up to his knees wet and climbed up a log which I held firm for him (my arms deep in the water hehe!). Then I walked back and forth with the packs and passed them up to him. His was so heavy (maybe 17kg) with the extra water as we have a dry camp tonight. Then I dived into the water and swam around the boulder. The cold water took my breath away. Liza floated her pack around instead. Another couple did the same as us, and Penny and Eric swam around. We then all got dressed and sat in the sun for lunch. What a glorious life we all have. Feeling very lucky.

After lunch we headed further into the Gorge on cold wobbly legs and walked up through Pocket Valley. We spoke with a Day pack group guide who told us he had seen 2 mulga snakes in the last 2 days so we will keep our eyes open extra wide. As we continued David was very lucky to see 2 dingoes on the creek bed in front of him, as I came towards him they walked up the ridge but I was still lucky to see them before they walked away. They were very healthy looking animals. We then climbed up a steep incline to Rocky Saddle. The views from the saddle were spectacular in both directions and the photos do not do the view justice. As we walked down from the saddle we saw the most amazing view, the valley was dotted with grey and green spinifex. It was a long walk through rocky beds but we walk well through this type of terrain. We continued for a while longer and arrived at Fringe Lily camp at 2.40pm. Following a sign made with rocks, we walked to the water pool at the end of the creek to watch the change of colours as the sun goes down. It was very pretty. We found a lovely camp that had sun warmth until 5.30pm which is fantastic. We have a great setup routine now which goes very smoothly. We have 8 in camp with us tonight – Penny and Eric, Liza, Saskia a young solo girl (E2W), a young couple (E2W) and us. The sites are well spread out. We only passed about 4 or 5 E2W bound hikers today plus a day pack group of about 7.
We are in bed again before 7pm as there is no shelter to gather at to chat. Also no water or toilet but that’s all part of the fun.

Tonight DBs shin is a mess. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

: Trail notes for Section 5 – We will redoing this one over 2 days as it has a high difficulty and very tricky terrain..

: Lots of packs and food bags hanging in the shelter last night, the mice have been everywhere..

: Another beautiful sunrise – this time at Hugh Gorge camp..

: David still trying to wake up – a chat with all our trail buddies will get him going..

: As we start on the trail we are straight into difficult terrain along the creaked over loose rocks into the gorge..

: And the obstacles begin.. over the tree and around the rocks face..

: ..from one obstacle to the next..

: ..trying to keep your feet dry.. Love the reflections in the water..

: ..as David scrambles around the rock face as well..

: Even squatting for this photo is a challenge with 14kg on your back..

: ..now climbing over some boulders in the creek bed..

: My favourite again..more trees..

: ..I call these toilet bowl trees..but definitely a toilet with a view..

: ..as we continue through the gorge on the rocky surface..

: ..it gets harder..

: ..and we get closer to our swim..

: ..as we move further in to the gorge..

: ..another challenge around the cliff face..

: ..balance at its premium here..

: The interesting rock surfaces along the way..

: ..as we go up and over some more obstacles..

: I love looking at the details of nature..

: David negotiating the tricky rocks before our swim. See the upright log to the left on the edge of the rocks..

: ..That is where we are headed. David is thinking – How can I get there without getting wet?

: ..Not possible this time..

: ..It was a long walk in very cold water.. Look at the amazing colours in the photo as well..

: ..He has made it to the rock shelf but how to get around it or up it without swimming.

: David walked his pack back to the rock shelf and I dropped mine off as well and then I held the rock down in the water so David could climb up it without swimming. He is so lucky I am happy to get wet in the freezing cold water..