Friday 4th November 2022
Sorry too tired to do a blog post last night.
Three days in one on Broady’s Tour today!
Well it is going to be a big one.
We started at out lovely accommodation just outside of Omis. A shame the weather was inclement and the water temperature has dropped. otherwise maybe, just maybe we could have stayed and rested for a couple of days. To say I am a little tired is an understatement, but only 5 days till we get a rest at Benny’s place. In the mean time, let’s soldier on. Too much to see and not enough time top see it.
This morning we headed down to Omis for a little exploration of another small town at the bottom of some amazing cliffs on the beautiful coast of Croatia. Apparently Omis has a rich pirate history but I haven’t had a chance to read about it. There were kids everywhere so either an excursion or no school today we are not sure. We enjoyed a lovely walk along the river and through the little town, we would have liked to hike up to the Castle but with the wet weather that was not an option today. It was a lovely little town, we enjoyed the first of our traditional food for a late morning tea. A pastry with chocolate filling and one with vanilla which we shared, so we got to try them both. Then we headed for a drive up to the Starigrad fortress on another narrow switchback road but this time with lots of houses up the hill and a little too much traffic. It was a lovely view at the top but unfortunately the road didn’t go all the way to the fortress and it was too wet to hike the km up the hill to it. We had already been drowned on our town walk. So we headed back down the switchbacks and on our way.
“Starigrad Fortress is a beautiful fortress perched 303 metres above sea level and served as a primary lookout point over the entire Brač channel and the Cetina hinterland. It was built in the early 15th century and protected the settlement for hundreds of years.
In fact, many historians say that it was because of this fortress that Omiš remained unconquered by the Ottomans for its long history.”
Next stop – Split.
“Split is the second largest city of Croatia, the largest city in Dalmatia and the largest city on the Croatian Coast. The largest city on the Adriatic Coast, Split has been under Roman, Venetian, Austrian, French, Italian, and Yugoslav rule. What a history. The Old City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and must-see historic attractions include Diocletian’s Palace, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, and the striking Grgur Ninski Statue. Take time to stroll along the Riva Harbor, browse through the Green Market, and sample the restaurants and wine cellars.”
We managed a few of these as we wandered the streets of the city.
“The palace was built with four entrances, three on the mainland and one from the sea. The main northern entrance to the palace is called Porta Aurea or the Golden Gate. The eastern and the western entrances to the palace are called Porta Argentea or the Silver Gate and Porta Ferrea or the Iron Gate. The entrance from the sea is called Porta Aenea or the Brass Gate.”
All with their own beauty. The most dramatic was the Golden Gate with the Grgur Ninski Statue. It was amazing with the most incredible attention to detail. In the photos take a look at his hands and feet, along with the incredible size (about 8m tall) it was spectacular. I had a quick look in St Martins Church. A tiny quaint Catholic church. We also walked in the Vestibule of the Palace of the Diocletian where we heard 4 men singing acapella which was magnificent. Their harmonies resound within the circular vault of the rotunda. The vestibule is missing the dome at the top of the rotunda. The acoustics in the rotunda were amazing, I could have spent a lot longer in here just listening to them. They performed on cue every time a tour group finished hearing about the area. A very lucrative position.
We also went in the Domnius Cathedral. It was very different to other cathedrals, it was quite small with a magnificent altar, tabernacle and statues. It was circular and at the rear was another sitting area with the altar in the centre and this was also the crypt.
“Grgur Ninski Statue – Sculpted by Ivan Meštrović, this gargantuan statue is one of the defining images of Split. Its subject, a 10th-century Croatian bishop, fought for the right to use old Croatian in liturgical services instead of Latin. Notice that his left big toe has been polished to a shine – it’s said that rubbing the toe brings good luck and guarantees that you’ll come back to Split.”
“The Cathedral of Saint Domnius, consecrated at the turn of the 7th century AD, is regarded as the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that remains in use in its original structure, without near-complete renovation at a later date (though the bell tower dates from the 12th century). The structure itself, built in AD 305 as the Mausoleum of Diocletian, is the second oldest structure used by any Christian Cathedral.”
“St. Martin’s Church is a Roman Catholic church in Split, Croatia. Built into a small space within the ancient Golden Gate of Diocletian’s northern wall, it is one of the oldest churches in the city built in the 5th-6th century. It is valued for its Early Romanesque 11th century chancel screen . The inscription on the screen tells of the dedication of the church to the Virgin, to St Gregory the Pope and to St Martin. Since the 14th century there has been a Dominican convent next to the church.”
We had some pizza for lunch plus a spinach and cheese pastry and gelato. A big day of eating out. We continued walking around the narrow cobble stoned streets. They were again lovely.
Then on we go again. Off to Trogir. We arrive here and check in to our apartment at about 5pm. We have a short rest and then head over to the Old Town of Trogir. Once again a little deserted but beautiful cobblestoned marble streets. There were alley ways to explore at every turn. It was truly very beautiful. We walked for about an hour seeing most of the beautiful features of the town then found a lovely restaurant Kamerlengo for dinner. All we wanted was some fresh seafood as we were right on the coast and it should be very good. We shared a starter plate of Octopus salad which was very nice, then David had the seafood risotto and I had the Prawn and Scampi spaghetti. Both were really nice. We finished off the meal with an almost shared wild berry cheesecake. Then went for a walk back through the Old Town to our home which was only 400m walk away.
“On the eve of the Feast of the Epiphany, on June 10, in the Žudika Park in Trogir, a monument to Croatian veterans from the Homeland War – the Trogir Crown – was ceremonially unveiled.”
Another jam packed day which had me at exhaustion point. I was way too tired to blog today. So sorry you have it a day late.
PS. I am not sure if I mentioned that even though it was raining the Croatian coastline is spectacular. We followed the coastline all the way today, sometimes absolute water front roads. It was amazing.
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The lovely pool and view from our apartment just outside Omis..
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..and its beautiful facade outside.
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..as we drive towards Omis the mountains are impressive..
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..and end at the sea on a tree lined street..
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..the beautiful beach front harbour..
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..a Homeland War memorial..
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..Try and get David to pronounce this one – way too hard!
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..the boats in the river harbour..
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..it was very pretty..
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..The Church of St Petra on the Riverfront..
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,,and inside was quite simplistic..
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..as we walk back along the river there is a castle on the mountain ahead..
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..all the boats appear to be in dock for the off season, 3 abreast..
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..the stairs up to the castle but unfortunately the gate was locked today..
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..looking back in to the town..
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..the old buildings were amazing..
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..A reference to the pirate history, I am still yet to read about..
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..as we head up to the Starigrad Fortress, the streets are a little squeezy..
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..with our adventure stopped by the weather we head back down and see a little church perched high on the hill….
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..and a beautiful panorama of Omiš..
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Stage 2 – Split..
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..the Brass gate entry..
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..the tunnel as we entered the brass gate..
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..some little port holes along the entry hall..
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..and a nice gate..
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..the tunnel in to the city was lined with stalls of souvenirs, jewellery and ceramics for the tourists..
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..the Cathedral of St Domains..
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..this little squatting lady has been featured on another cathedral..
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..the acapella rotunda..
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..the sphinx at the cathedral..
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The Temple of Jupiter Door..
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..with its headless sphinx all the way from Egypt..
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..and a vault of some sort..
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..looking through an alley way to the Cathedrals Bell Tower..
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..another alleyway..
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..with some beautiful steps..
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..I could walk through here for hours, getting lost a little sometimes..
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The Bell Tower of St Domains Cathedral..
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Such amazing architecture for its time..
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..tunnels through the streets..
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..this was the most amazing old wall with glass doors, it looked a little wrong..
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Sculpture near St Martins Church..
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..and a sculpture in the entrance..
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..The 11th century Chancel Screen..
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As we walk out the Golden Gate..
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.. we see the gargantuan statue of Grgur Ninski – Sculpted by Ivan Meštrović..
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..it is 8m tall and considered gargantuan..
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..the bronze toe rubbed clean for good luck. See the details of the sculpture..
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..in particular the detail of the gnarly hands. I love it..
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This was the jug/urn emptying water into the aqueduct..
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The People’s Square..
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..and the clock in the Peoples Square – an example of Romanesque architecture..
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..some traditional pastries to choose from for lunch today..
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..entrance door to Cathedral of St Domnius..
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..once inside the opulence is incredible. The main altar was built from 1685 till 1689..
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..with its amazing statues and tabernacle..
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..its organ..
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The door into the area which is now the crypt..
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..inside the crypt..
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..the pews..
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..and looking towards the altar..
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..outside there were several vaults..
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..and many statues..
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As we walk out of the old town..
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..towards Republic Square..
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..then along the promenade, you need your imagination for what it would be like here in summer with thousands of tourists….
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..In the distance David noticed a Aircraft carrier – it was USS George HW Bush (CVN77) which was here in the Split Harbour..
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..as we walk back along the promenade we have been very lucky the rain held off for our visit to Split.
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..After another short drive from Split this time and a little rest, we head back out towards the Trogir Old Town across the bridge..
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..and enter through the North Gate dating back to the 15th century..
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..it looks beautiful in the night lights..
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..as we walk through the marble cobbled streets there are some shops still operating here..
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..through a closed gate I snap a photo of some statues..
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..and some buildings..
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..St Lawrences Cathedral..
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..and its bell tower..
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..some more streets..
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The Great Cipiko Palace entry..
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..more streets. I love the stone walls..
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Kamerlengo Fortress out on the harbour was built by the Venetians in the 15th century as an extension of existing structures..
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..The harbour at Trogir at night, the sailing vessels..
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..and cruise ships have all been harnessed 3 abreast for the off season. It is amazing how it looks like they have just shut down and gone away..
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..as we walk back towards the old town..
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..through the quiet streets and find a restaurant..
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..for a lovely meal. Octopus salad for starters..
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The Crown of Trogir –
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A big day out – 73km driving from Omis to Split to Trogir with big walks of 9.2km.